Fattoria La Rivolta

2024 Taburno Sannio DOP Coda di Volpe

It has guava and ripe honey crisp apple pulled right from the tree, laced with rich citrus and a freshly herbal quality that almost reminds me of Irish Spring soap. The wine becomes much peachier as it matures, or even on the next day you pour it if you manage to have any open overnight. Ian d’Agata christened the 2024 vintage of this Coda di Volpe, a rare Campanian variety he’s championed for many years, with a glowing 95-point review, but even going back to his 2014 book "Native Wine Grapes of Italy” he is listing Paolo’s Taburno Sannio DOC rendition of this precious grape as a 3-star benchmark exemplar, and one that swings way above its price point.

This is the kind of wine that has a really beautiful weight without relying on oak, booze, or RS to achieve it. In fact, when I visited Paolo at VinItaly again this year, he invited me to signore D’Agata’s afternoon tasting of rare varieties, where they were pouring back vintages of Fattoria la Rivolta’s Coda di Volpe from 2012 from magnum. So cool! I hope the fame of this variety continues to spread. A must-taste-to-believe type of wine.