2022 Saint-Péray AOC Version

Domaine François Villard

Over the last two decades, the Version cuvée has risen to prominence as a benchmark for this wonderful and re-emergent appellation: Saint-Péray AOC. Located just south of Cornas and beloved for their honey’d and sunkissed examples of Marsanne and Roussanne (along with their exceptional sparkling renditions made here). Through Pliny and Plutarch we know this area was planted since the Roman conquest of Gaul and we have Saint-Péray by name in the written record as early as 928 when vineyards were donated to the Cluny monastery, but like so many regions in eastern France, phylloxera and two world wars brought it down, despite earning its AOC in the earliest roster of appellations (1936). In François’s pristine Saint-Péray vineyard, his attentive farming has shown the beautifully floral and fruit-laden result, more waxy stone-fruited than the racy mineral-driven wines from Saint-Joseph on account of Saint-Péray’s more clayey and thereby water-retentive soils. François also grows a larger proportion of Roussanne for this cuvée, which brings its lift and acidity and aromatic density to Marsanne’s rounder, heroic structure, keeping the wine from becoming too bulky in these sunnier Southern climes. Kristen Bieler of Wine Spectator gave such a well-written tasting note for the 2022: “Alluring and plump, with ripe yellow plum, melon and verbena notes that are juicy and concentrated, then well-chiseled, with fine mineral details and a thread of zesty green herbs. Stays fresh and vibrant, with hints of salted butter and meadow flowers playing off the voluptuous finish.” A looser 5,500 vines per hectare here, planted in the Cordon de Royat manner, similar to François’s Crozes-Hermitage. The vineyards enjoy a southeast exposure with 20yo vines. Direct pressed to French oak barriques and foudres to ferment with native yeast, followed by 14 months’ élevage on the fine lees. 19,607 bottles produced. 13% ABV. Cellaring potential: 10 years.