Domaine Bersan

2023 Saint Bris AOC Mont Embrasé

In the second edition of Inside Burgundy, MW Jasper Morris highlights the Mont Embrasé lieu-dit as one of the four best sites in all of St-Bris, exemplified by Domaine Jean-Christophe Bersan, from 45-year-old vines with a western exposure as the plateau dips.” Mont Embrasé commands the ideal mid-line stretch of this very pronounced slope north of the village, where precious Kimmeridgean Marls are even richer in fast-draining limestone than usual. Jean-Christophe owns one hectare of old vines here and treats them to a different élevage, more akin to a premier cru Chablis approach. He uses stainless steel for only a third of this cuvée, fermenting and ageing the other two-thirds in 600L French oak demi-muids and concrete eggs, respectively. This oak component draws on his skill as a Chardonnay and Pinot Noir specialist. In these carefully selected barrels (with oak origin and toast level adapted to each vintage’s potential), Jean-Christophe regularly stirs the lees, enhancing the integration of the oak. Meanwhile, the concrete eggs promote continuous lees suspension, adding texture and complexity. And the stainless steel preserves the Sauvignon’s natural freshness and signature aromas. After the three components are blended, they mature an additional six months before they’re bottled unfiltered. A lean 12.5% ABV here, great now to 2031, and fun to pair with spicy South Asian dishes.