Domaine Bersan

2023 Bourgogne Côte d'Auxerre AOC Cuvée Louis Bersan Rouge

From only 0.55ha, this cuvée boasts of 45-80 years of age, chiefly hailing from the southern edge of La Ronce on Kimmeridgean blue and white clay heavier soils. As before, Jasper Morris highlights La Ronce as also being one of the best Pinot Noir sites in Saint-Bris (while the north/northeast portion that wraps back is ideal for Sauvignon, as seen in J-C’s Saint-Bris AOC). This fruit is joined by a supplement of Pinot Noir grown in the richer clay areas of lieu-dits Vau de Pissou and Le Clou to the south, where the exposure turns due-south, bathed in light. 80% destemmed and 20% whole cluster in 2023, the wine cold-soaks for 5 to 6 days before a cool, temperature-controlled spontaneous ferment in stainless steel commences (≤ 28°C). Like the previous wine, there’s gentle remontage and three weeks’ maceration before pneumatic pressing back to stainless for MLF. But unlike the previous wine, the Cuvée Louis Bersan is then transferred to 1500L foudre in their 11th-century cellars to age a further 12 months before being bottled unfined and unfiltered at 13%. Best enjoyed between 2027 and 2033 and served at 13-17°C, the wine’s silky tannins and fresh bright profile pair easily with all kinds of classic Pinot food friends.

*As Jasper Morris notes, “The region has a distinguished, ancient vinous history, with frequent references in verse and tin the cellar-books of French and English royalty. Kings François I and Henry IV promoted the wines of Auxerre, the former decreeing its free sale throughout France and the latter removing taxes on it. King John and Henry VIII of England were also among its patrons. […] The lion’s share of [Côte d’Auxerre AOC] plantings can be found in the commune of St-Bris, where vineyards are mostly denominated as belonging to one appellation or the other: St-Bris on the stony limestone plateau and on the slopes exposed more to the north; Côtes d’Auxerre on soils richer in clay and on the sunny slopes oriented more to the south and west. […] The red wines, made entirely from Pinot, are typically lightish in colour and with an attractive red fruit that struggles to make itself known above the fierce mineral background. Well-made examples with enough primary Pinot fruit will develop a softer style with some bottle-age.”