Champagne Lagache

Champagne AOC Brut Pierry 1er Cru

Charlotte Lagache is the third generation behind this wonderful 10 hectare estate, taking over from her father in 2019 and growing beautiful Champagnes that mark out this special little enclave in the Champenois vignoble. This, their ‘Brut a Pierry’ grower champagne, is the domaine’s entry-level example, and its fruit hails entirely from their home village of Pierry.

Pierry is interesting as it is the only village in the Coteaux Sud d'Épernay to receive premier cru status (even Épernay itself was classed only as an autre cru). And the Coteaux Sud d'Épernay is this fascinating interface between three of Champagnes most famous regions, where the Grande Vallée de la Marne above it (famous for Pinot Noir) and the Vallée de la Marne Rive Gauche just west of it (known for their rich Meunier) transitions into the brilliantly chalky soils of the Côte des Blancs (known for its statuesque Chardonnay). You can see this reflected in the varietal make up of this wine, drawing its lion’s share from Chardonnay but counter-balanced with a combined 60% of Meunier and Pinot Noir. Pierry sits just outside the Côte des Blancs proper, neighboring the grand cru Chouilly which sits on pure chalk, just east of it, and Charlotte has parcels there (and in a few other surrounding villages) as well. The domaine itself is located in millstone cellars dating to the 17th century, when Pierry’s most famous winemaker, benedictine monk Jean Oudart, was active. These cool environs have fostered beautiful, slow fermentations for the Lagache family since they started vinifying their own fruit in 1959.

The wine boasts a fine persistent perlage with a straw profile glinting with pale golden aspects, very nice to look at, but even nicer to inhale with its radiant classical profile of apple, pear, and myriad citrus notes, touched with gentle notes of almond, fresh baked brioche, and drying straw notes. Just textbook. The palate confirms all this along with some great minerality and nutty tertiary notes from the roughly 30% reserve wines included each year. An excellent find, great value, and all the hallmarks that lead us to so adore Champagne.