Unico Zelo

Esoterico (Orange)

Aromatic orange wines are such a delight, especially when they are rendered so cleanly, eschewing any of the more daring off-qualities often rendered permissible in skin-contact whites. A happy gang of Zibibbo, Gewürztraminer, Moscato Giallo, and Greco grown in the Clare Valley and the Riverland are individually fermented and blended then aged in foudres to achieve this uniquely floral and refreshing wine.

The nose here is gripping: sandalwood, lemon zest, fresh fruity juniper, coriander seed, mint, and a note of whatever they use to flavour juicy fruit gum. And markedly not cidery or yeasty as one often expects with an orange wine. On the palate, those aromas come together into a wine that is delightfully gin-like, really refreshing, and just very well-made—not oxidized, not riddled with VA or glutamates—a balanced beauty. The finish is floral with a lingering zesty citrus profile and the warm fruit note of honey dew.

Region: Polish Hill in Clare Valley, Barmera in Riverland

Appellation: Clare Valley & Riverland

Varietal/Blend: 66% Zibibbo, 25% Gewürztraminer, 7% Moscato Giallo, 2% Greco

ABV: 10.5%

Vineyard: Unico Zelo Esoterico is crafted from 25–80 year old vines in Barmera (Riverland) and Polish Hill River (Clare Valley), at 50–520 meters altitude. Grown in a moderate Mediterranean climate on ancient sandy limestone soils, the fruit delivers distinctive character.

Cellar: For this wine, each variety was fermented separately on skins for 7–21 days until dry, building depth and character. Then, the wine was matured for 12 months on fine lees in old oak foudres and stainless steel, unfined and unfiltered.

CSPC: 885964

Winemakers Note: This has become one of our most cult-followed wines since we began. It's not exactly white wine, nor red - many call it Amber wine...but we just call it Esoterico. There is no fining or filtration involved, with the wine allowed to clarify by gravity alone - resulting in a slight haze and sediment. This is one of the most enjoyable wines to craft, as there was no preconceived idea of what it must taste like - the chief driver is pure drinkability - a 'scrumptious' quality - mouthwatering acidity and 'say hello!' tannins. It's a Bohemian at heart.

What the Critics are saying: You couldn’t include more aromatic varieties in a blend if you tried. A mix of Riverland and Clare Valley fruit. It’s like throwing your head deep into a bouquet of spring blooms: rose petals, lime blossom, lemon sorbet, lime marmalade, lychee and a touch of dried mint. The bone-dry palate is juxtaposed with a savoury, briney, skinsy texture followed by a refreshing finish thanks to a vivacious acid line. Campari, dried orange rind, lemon juice and pith and a slight gasoline note. It grows on you with each sip. A quirky, interesting wine. Good length too and really comes into its own with food – try fried halloumi. 92 points, Decanter (2021 Vintage)

The 2022 Esoterico leads with orange zest and mandarin, wet straw, white currant and candle wax. The wine is chalky/grippy and floral. This is a field blend of varieties, with time on skins being the defining feature of the wine's construction and personality. I can still taste it; the length of flavor is good. 10.5% alcohol, sealed under Diam. 91 points, Robert Parker's Wine Advocate (2022 Vintage)