IYKYK... BARBACÀN has arrived

Our own Andrew Stewart first visited the Valtellina in Lombardy in 2004 and recalls it as the most important turning point in his wine career. Representing Barbacàn in Western Canada is a full circle moment that only he could describe best:

The Valtellina. Leonardo da Vinci described it as a “valley surrounded by tall and fearsome mountains” producing wines that are “heady & strong.” One could also add that the viticulture here is as epic (and as important) as the literary masterpiece La Divina Comedia. Yet for all of this praise and historical significance, the Valtellina remains relatively obscure compared to the local grape variety’s more famous siblings in Barolo and Barbaresco.

Perhaps this is due to the remote locale in the extreme north of Lombardy, a mere stone’s throw from Switzerland. Perhaps the feral beauty of this hamlet is not as popular as the glorious Como or metropolitan Milano in the same province. Chiavennasca—the local name for and ancient precursor to Nebbiolo—has been grown here since medieval times. Wine cultivation in the Valtellina however, stretches back over 2 millennium.

Personally, I fell in love with this wine region very early in my career. When I travelled there in 2004, my love of wine was indelibly cemented. More importantly, it was here I discovered my vocation: to introduce as many of these far away and obscure regions to Canadian wine lovers as a I could. Fast forward 18 years later and I am beyond proud and truly excited to finally introduce the wines of Barbacàn to Alberta. In a full circle moment, I have been able to connect my epiphany wine region with a domaine that truly practices authenticity, transparency, and honesty in their heroic wine farming.

Situated in the far eastern Cru of Valgella (one of five Valtellina sub-regions), these are mountain soils—sandy and loamy granites rich in silica and wonderful at banking precious daytime heat. Already, the Nebbiolo of Valtellina wines are famous for being far leaner and more fine grained and delicate than their more famous Piemonte counterparts, but those of Valgella are known as the most elegant and delicate expressions in all of the Valtellina. The classic personality of Nebbiolo is in every bottle with a gentle nuance that is profound.

In the cellar, the Sega family aids the wines along rather than imposing upon them, opting for minimalism in winemaking. The wines are fermented with natural indigenous yeasts and there are no additions, no filtering nor fining, just a gentle hand to bring forth wines of intense fragrance and purity that are the result of the fascinating tension in these climes. Barbacàn adheres to the aging traditions of Valtellina in their cellars. They also continue to include the traditional ancient Valtellina varietals that make up to 10% of the blends (Rossola, Pignola, Brugnola), long forgotten outside the region. This is a singular expression of a grape variety known and adored across the world, yet never like this, and only possible here. A true terroir touchpoint, not frozen in time, but simply rooted in place. If this is your first experience with Valtellina, let alone Barbacàn, we are so very happy to make your acquaintance.

2020 ROSATO ALPI RETICHE

Rosato di Valtellina IGT

An alpine rose. Made of Chiavennasca (aka Nebbiolo) … Of course, this would steal my heart. 70% Chivannesca and 30% of the other indigenous varieties, this wine is sourced from some of the highest altitude vineyards in Barbacàns possession. The Noah's Ark depicted on the label represents the will of these brothers to recover the ancient local varieties. Very gentle pressing, and only about 24 hours of skin contact, ferments spontaneously, and rests in concrete briefly before being unleashed on the curious minds of Nebbiolo fanatics. Sleek strawberry, red currant, candied rose petal give evidence of Nebbiolo (truly, Chivannesca) which rests atop a tarry earth, mineral core. Tangy acidity and light bergamot black tea tannins fuse with black cherry on the smoky earth finish. A genuine wine of this remarkable place and ancient varieties. Absolutely spectacular, a gorgeous play between ethereal and vibrant. We were able to source a mere 12 bottles.

864040 | 1 case of 12 available

2020 ROSSO ALPI RETICHE

Rosso di Valtellina DOC

Based primarily on Chiavennesca of course, this juicy, vibrant and complex wine, also includes other indigenous varieties like Rossola, Rossolino Rosa, Brugnola, Pignola, Negrera, Chiavennaschino, and Chivaennesca Bianco. A true field blend but with its heart anchored to Chiavennesca. Traditional vinification with 20-ish days maceration this one aged in both stainless and older barrique. 8 months of rest before release, this wine presents as fresh as the Alpine air it is born in. Vibrant cherry and red fruit nose, with a hint of pepper like spice, and mint like freshness, this wine is both complex and instantly pleasurable, and relatable. Welcoming you to understand it without any pretence or artifice.

864038 | 27 cases of 12 available

2019 SÖL

Valtellina Superiore Valgella DOCG

Here we ascend the levels of what the Valtellina can achieve. Chivannesca here with a whisper of Rossola, aged 12 months in old oak, with a minimum additional 12 months rest before release. Here we explore the more spice, and floral heavy appearance of the variety, while maintaining the red fruit typicity. A more powerful expression with the weight, alcohol, palate intensity and of course, tannin, all climbing but maintaining a freshness and balance that allude to the further elegance available to those with patience. We begin to witness the power of Nebbiolo, steeled against the “breva” winds of this river valley. Serious but approachable and a singular Cru from the farm.

864042 | 14 cases of 12 available

2019 JAZPÉMI

Valtellina Superiore Valgella DOCG

The first “Cru” wine of Barbacàn, sourced from the vineyard of this same name. this predates the Söl single-site bottling and presents as rounder and fuller than its sibling. Perfect southern exposure with loads of sunlight hours, and old, firmly established vines produce a sturdy, and regal wine time after time. The star here is the elegance and complexity, combined with the deepening flashes of raspberry, cherry, spice, and warm full tannins balanced perfectly by the granitic minerality and acidity. Classically Nebbiolo, but unmistakably Valtellina.

864043 | 9 cases of 12 available

2018 SFORZATO DI VALTELLINA

Sforzato di Valtellina DOCG

One could say that this is the big daddy of all Valtellina wines or indeed of Nebbiolo period. Sforzato or “strained” reffering to the appassimento style production, akin to the well-known wines of Amarone della Valpolicella. Chiavennasca 90%, Chiavennaschino 10%, and naturally dried on mats for over two months. The same “breva” wind flowing through the space to keep the grapes from rotting or developing fungal issues. All of this then being feremented naturally with no additions of any sort. 18 months in barrique before and an additional 12 months in bottle prior to release. The pinnacle of concentration and intensity form these glorious slopes. Warm, rich and intoxicating, with enough structure to not feel heavy.

864044 | 6 cases of 6 available